The modern development of Iraq is starting to look exciting and after years in which ancient sites have suffered destruction and neglect, archaeologists are now breaking new grounds and making new discoveries. Iraq's rich and inspirational history is easily forgotten in the tragic turmoil of recent years. This is where writing began and where zero was introduced into mathematics. Although parts of the country remain off limits to tourists, there is plenty to see elsewhere, from Kurdistan's capital, Erbil, one of the world's oldest inhabited cities, to the dazzling shrines of Kerbala, Najaf and Kufa, ruins of ancient Mesopotamian cities, sites of recent US military history such as Fallujah, and the grave of Gertrude Bell, who explored, mapped and excavated the world of the Arabs and provided military intelligence for TE Lawrence's military activities. You can visit the Tombs of the Iraqi Royal family and Ctesiphon, the largest free-standing brick archway in the world, see archaeological proof of the great flood, mentioned in the Bible and the Gilgamesh, and discover the treasures of the National Museum of Iraq.

The authors bring their considerable knowledge and understanding of Iraq to provide all the practical and background information needed for a successful trip. Advice on cultural awareness and religious sensitivity in the context of Iraqi history, along with where to get the latest information on which parts of the country you can still visit, make this an invaluable guide.